I need help from someone with real experience.... I will repeat everything done from begining to give some clues.
With money unnecessarily spent in valvetrain (I could have done the bottom bearings for this money), I decided for four stages:
Yesterday I stuck wet towels (in order to mute leak) around leaky passanger collector (the point on manifold where four pipes meet above h-pipe flange). No change in knock.
I could swear I can hear knock thru whole upper part of the engine and heads. On oil pan it is a bit muted.
A knock? Or proper word would be clack/tack? I heard numerous I4 engines rod and main knocks, and I would not say/wish/want - this is not it.
Real knock is speed-rattling, whatever You do it does not go away. If You blip the throttle You will move away from I4 knocking engine holding Your pants, for sure.... You don't dare even to wait for oil to be warm. BUT, I (and most of mechanics here) never heard US V8 engines with rod and main problem...
If I push 302 for 3-4k RPM and it settles and quites down, when warm it dissipates. This is the problem...
You can hear knock on idle, and up to ~1800RPM. Then it dissapears. You can hear it also if You blip throttle in lower RPM's, following/slowing down with RPM.
You can't hear knock in drive/acceleration/deacceleration, engine runs strong, no shaking, miss, stumble in any condition. Take the knock away and engine runs like a dream, a raped ape.
What made me looking for exhaust leak is harder acceleration by wall when I heard distinctive "puf puf" sound following the exhaust beat the other day. Otherwise you can't hear, feel, or see (smoke) leak. Also, a knock started at first on cold engine ONLY, until reaching normal coolant temperature
Now the million dollar question is, would such a tiny exaus leak produce knock resonating up to distributor bolt?
Before knock:
- cleaned lifters and restored everthing above them to mint, new condition - was running okay
- restored smog/airpump and system - was running okay
- changed AOD fluid (complete) - was running okay
- found coolant leak at timing cover
- found harmonic balancer rubber sticking - PANIC, I know what it can do, ordered new one!
- first balancer was okay but had vibrations ~1600rpm, drove ~50miles, no knock
- no driving, changed engine mounts, tranny mount, spark plug cables
- no driving, second balancer arrived wobbling and heard FIRST EVER KNOCK on cranking!
After knock ON WARMUP (goes away when coolant temperature nomalizes):
- third Pioneer PB1084N balancer arrived, knock present - HB still on car
- run without serpetine belt, knock there
- checked crank snout runout - within 0.004" when cranking the car (in reality is less due to vibrations, but this is only way how we could check)
- used liqui moly for lifters, no change
- changed timing chain set, water pump, fan clutch, complete front part renewal, M1 5w-30 and new filter - knock there
- new filter
- spark plug wire test, run without belt, knock there
- snake oils (stp oil additive, seafoam) - no change, actually after stp oil additive knock started to be hearable even after warmun
- verified oil pressure with mechanical gauge
After knock ON WARMUP & WARM IDLE:
- changed lifters, pushrods, pedestals, rockers and bolts, 5w-40 and FL1A filter - no change knock there
- here I am, still willing to fix this old guy, waiting for Your suggestions, hoping it is exhaust... found used OEM 302 shorty manifolds in Germany for ~75 usd... possibly a next missed investment, but better to have them at home when they are still available....
Thnx for Your help
With money unnecessarily spent in valvetrain (I could have done the bottom bearings for this money), I decided for four stages:
1) Spark plug change and test (done, retest unplugged one-by-one, no change in sound), ignition coil test (done, no change)
2) Release engine mounts from chasis, lift the engine i air (lifted without unbolting mounts, no change, with unbolting mounts still to be done)
3) Remove exhaust manifolds from engine and H-pipe, reseal
4) Remove AOD from engine, run engine... if no change - leave it on the lift and drop the pan....
Yesterday I stuck wet towels (in order to mute leak) around leaky passanger collector (the point on manifold where four pipes meet above h-pipe flange). No change in knock.
I could swear I can hear knock thru whole upper part of the engine and heads. On oil pan it is a bit muted.
A knock? Or proper word would be clack/tack? I heard numerous I4 engines rod and main knocks, and I would not say/wish/want - this is not it.
Real knock is speed-rattling, whatever You do it does not go away. If You blip the throttle You will move away from I4 knocking engine holding Your pants, for sure.... You don't dare even to wait for oil to be warm. BUT, I (and most of mechanics here) never heard US V8 engines with rod and main problem...
If I push 302 for 3-4k RPM and it settles and quites down, when warm it dissipates. This is the problem...
You can hear knock on idle, and up to ~1800RPM. Then it dissapears. You can hear it also if You blip throttle in lower RPM's, following/slowing down with RPM.
You can't hear knock in drive/acceleration/deacceleration, engine runs strong, no shaking, miss, stumble in any condition. Take the knock away and engine runs like a dream, a raped ape.
What made me looking for exhaust leak is harder acceleration by wall when I heard distinctive "puf puf" sound following the exhaust beat the other day. Otherwise you can't hear, feel, or see (smoke) leak. Also, a knock started at first on cold engine ONLY, until reaching normal coolant temperature
Now the million dollar question is, would such a tiny exaus leak produce knock resonating up to distributor bolt?
Before knock:
- cleaned lifters and restored everthing above them to mint, new condition - was running okay
- restored smog/airpump and system - was running okay
- changed AOD fluid (complete) - was running okay
- found coolant leak at timing cover
- found harmonic balancer rubber sticking - PANIC, I know what it can do, ordered new one!
- first balancer was okay but had vibrations ~1600rpm, drove ~50miles, no knock
- no driving, changed engine mounts, tranny mount, spark plug cables
- no driving, second balancer arrived wobbling and heard FIRST EVER KNOCK on cranking!
After knock ON WARMUP (goes away when coolant temperature nomalizes):
- third Pioneer PB1084N balancer arrived, knock present - HB still on car
- run without serpetine belt, knock there
- checked crank snout runout - within 0.004" when cranking the car (in reality is less due to vibrations, but this is only way how we could check)
- used liqui moly for lifters, no change
- changed timing chain set, water pump, fan clutch, complete front part renewal, M1 5w-30 and new filter - knock there
- new filter
- spark plug wire test, run without belt, knock there
- snake oils (stp oil additive, seafoam) - no change, actually after stp oil additive knock started to be hearable even after warmun
- verified oil pressure with mechanical gauge
After knock ON WARMUP & WARM IDLE:
- changed lifters, pushrods, pedestals, rockers and bolts, 5w-40 and FL1A filter - no change knock there
- here I am, still willing to fix this old guy, waiting for Your suggestions, hoping it is exhaust... found used OEM 302 shorty manifolds in Germany for ~75 usd... possibly a next missed investment, but better to have them at home when they are still available....
Thnx for Your help