Kartheif, ya i was running 215/45 i was gettn for $15 a pop in the rear. Im on 245/40 kenda kr20a's (the preferred drift tire) previously my fronts. And it has way too much grip in the rear now. Runnin 215's up front. But now its under steering. I cant stand the looks of those skinny tires in the back. But i could live with it if i throw some 1" spacers on the back to bring wheel out. I want to do that anyway, no matter what tire. Should be about flush with fender edge. Prolly.
I've had the lowers on and bolted/half ass welded. I'll do the uppers sometime. Maybe.
Gotta do my pass. Door handle next, since its been broke. And window motor b/c it finally went out. And fix pass drum shoes, wheel cylinder. And the solid steering shaft conv. Im just rambling here.
If you are drifting the car the spacers are not the way to go, think about the stress you are putting on the wheel studs and you are wasting your money on 'drift' tires unless they are really cheap, learn car control before you spend money on tires.
Spacers are fine, its cheap angle and the studs aint going nowhere. There is myth behind spacers, i researched it before i got em and basically never a problem. Specially "non hub centric" spacers, i was worried about it, but ends up its nothing.
The kendas do last quite a bit longer vs. Like everything dollar per lap metric, but their too grippy for me in the dry in 245/40 at my hp level. I dont like em. I like em as fronts that offer all the grips.
I can drive the out of the car. I got a couple lines i do that are serious. Mind you, i dont have a hydro e brake yet, so that limits what i can do to an extent. But i just brake jam to get a similar result ie: slow down but keep it sideways. But you cant hold out a line or stretch out as far w/o a hydro.
So after maybe kinda losing my temper gettin the door panel on... just b/c its 10:30-11pm and im rollin in sweat.. thats what initially pisses me off. Then yadi yadi, im an idiot.. that does it too. Lmao. But only after the fact do i remember im a dumbass so... let me explain. I went to bolt door panel with the armchair bolts and the damn plastic (from the factory it looks like) was covering the bolt so i couldbt see it. Then it went down hill.. then back good, but not after beating on lol. (Like its really gonna help) so i get the whole sack of together after laying on the ground (its10:30pm, but somehow the god damn ground is still 98 fckn degrees, mind you rolling in sweat) to line up some screw for the bottom of door panel, we dont use panel clips over here, thats way to nice.
No worries, i bought the tool and clips and wasted $25.00. Pissed off already when i notice that pulling it apart. Im all like ya, ima do right and proper, no, its 6 screws and 2 bolts holding the panel on. No clips. Lolol.
So i got it back together, door panel nice and firmly, its good. Check the door. Wala. Closes and open nice. So nice that i might do the other side even though it has a "new" one on it, prob 10 yrs old id guess.
Bam, window motor starts working once i start the car and try it, fck yes. Now im stoked. Slow at first, then up and down a couple times a few inches and it speeds up, back in business.
Those dumb lead threads they put in ths window motor.. why? Im sure there is a reason, and im sure its stupid. A bolt, nut lock washer would suffice better id think. Be less prone to tearing threads out at least. The first one i threaded on a bench started just breaking into pieces up top. Smh. It worked out and i didnt go the bolt/nut route but.. still seams cheap and ty. I didnt thread the 3rd hole, and only started the 2nd on the bench.
Ruh roh. Got a peculiar noise under the valve cover at idle. Not sure if lifter or spring, somn fcky for sure. But goes away mostly when i under driving condition. Not a ticking noise, more like a spinning noise.
Just thinking how to diagnose it. Guess just tear into it is the only way. Sounds like a good time to throw some gt40p's on.
So id need stud mount rockers it looks like? Im sure thats a dumb question. Lol. I gotta jump on em if their hyd roller. Cost me the same for gt40p's with springs. Im sure these are better. And lighter!
Just started car and didnt do it. So it cant be a real mechanical break. Would be consistent right. Though it did it like 3 little noises.
Thought it was a throw out bearing at first, almost sounded like an exhaust leak when it was doing it first time. But once i popped hood i feel like i could pin point noise to passenger valve cover.. kinda cancelling out my throw out bearing idea. Iono, ill wait for it to do it again and try to diagnose it better.
That didnt go well. Lmao Hydro planed on highway right into..... wait for it. The barrier. Dead. (50 ish id guess) 2 lane part, had just hit black top, was like eww this looks dangerous. Bingo. Was on dead tires slicks in middle.
Ya and its a little worse than it looks. Not much. Pretty much only solution is tube front. I was about to go drift, but after checking it out further the overflow tank is rubbing on the a/c compressor and power steering pulleys. And fan is on the radiator, and fan is wedged fan guard.
1st off, gonna pull that core support out with a chain and truck. Lol. That'll make it "perfectly driveable." Get the overflow tank off that . Then hit up a frame shop see if they can do any magic. I hope they can do magic. Haha cause thats what it needs.