Build Thread My Never Ending 89 Notch Thread

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Cover her up and pickup a cheap c5 and get some driving in before the white stuff hits. Work on it during the winter here and there and make yourself believe it'll all be ready to rock by the time the salt is gone and the birds are chirping
If I had the extra cash trust me I would . I just sold my diesel . Picked up a mint One owner Sierra that I cleaned up and put my touches on. Sold my commuter Sentra to buy my sisters Honda Accord as a new commuter . It’s been just busy here . I’d love a C5z . HCI and done

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Boostedpimp

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If I had the extra cash trust me I would . I just sold my diesel . Picked up a mint One owner Sierra that I cleaned up and put my touches on. Sold my commuter Sentra to buy my sisters Honda Accord as a new commuter . It’s been just busy here . I’d love a C5z . HCI and done
Had to put it out there man. Is the truck already ceramic coated because it looks great
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Had to put it out there man. Is the truck already ceramic coated because it looks great
Nah just rubbed and detailed . Here’s a pic from today actually . With the Denali painted mirror covers and the rain gaurds on. Here’s a before pic of it too . Got it from my buddy who was the original owner .

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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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We’ll , checked the converter snout out tonight made sure it slides in and out of the crank with no issues . Mocked it up to the flex plate . Installed the flex plate and block plate

Opened up the trans pan to remove the stick shift lever and replace it with the aftermarket one that lets you run what ever shifter .

So trans is about ready to go in .
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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10 steps forward 9 back .

Converter seated in the trans and we have a 1/2in of space between the converter pad and the flexplate . Why ? I have no idea . Brought converter forward it slides into the crank no issue spins free. Seat it back on the pump . Same thing spins free but seems excessive . Spoke to Brian Freezy . He’s gona call dusty at ptc and see what he says . Converter may have to go back and get modified to get us to that 1/8-3/16th pullout . Normally I’d say yeah well shim it and be good but this seems excessive
 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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Wonder if it's an issue more with the sfi bell than the converter itself since the whole front of the case gets sawed off (and some of the "machinists" you run into these days shouldn't be anywhere near a hand drill let alone a mill).
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Wonder if it's an issue more with the sfi bell than the converter itself since the whole front of the case gets sawed off (and some of the "machinists" you run into these days shouldn't be anywhere near a hand drill let alone a mill).
I mean it looks like it was done very well . Freddy brown is the one who did it so but we kind of thought the same thing more along the lines of just the bell playing a part in it . Dusty from PTC advised me to pull the converter 3/16th forward. Measure and make sure from pad to flex plate that it came forward from my original half inch I had . Check and make sure the snout is slightly engaged in the crank and then shim it to be there and call it a day . If it isn’t engaged then it has to go back to them
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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I mean it looks like it was done very well . Freddy brown is the one who did it so but we kind of thought the same thing more along the lines of just the bell playing a part in it . Dusty from PTC advised me to pull the converter 3/16th forward. Measure and make sure from pad to flex plate that it came forward from my original half inch I had . Check and make sure the snout is slightly engaged in the crank and then shim it to be there and call it a day . If it isn’t engaged then it has to go back to them
Shim it as in put washers between the converter and flex plate?
 

TOOLOW91

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Shim it as in put washers between the converter and flex plate?
Correct . So the pull out is correct and it doesn’t jam the converter into the back of the crank and wipe the thrust out
 

TOOLOW91

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Is that a normal thing to do? It sounds a lot like something I'd do and that's concerning...... :D
Yes it’s in the directions to measure the converter pull out and have it no more then the 1/8-3/16ths. I just wasn’t clear on how I was supposed to be doing it
 

Chuckman

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When I did mine, I took a straight edge across the bell and measured to a conveter bolt pad with the converter all the way on the input snout. On the flex side I used a dial caliper thru a bolt hole to the seperator plate. Subtract a from from b, and voila. Too much pull out and the converter snout lugs won't engage the pump gears, and, well, bad news bears. Too little and you wipe a thrust bearing and, again, no bueno.

What flex are you running btw? Some are just not right because "aftermarket". I'm using a tci one (with a stock v6 trans and converter to get it running) and it was right in range. There also wasn't much excess thread on the converter studs so don't know how well too big of a spacer would work.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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When I did mine, I took a straight edge across the bell and measured to a conveter bolt pad with the converter all the way on the input snout. On the flex side I used a dial caliper thru a bolt hole to the seperator plate. Subtract a from from b, and voila. Too much pull out and the converter snout lugs won't engage the pump gears, and, well, bad news bears. Too little and you wipe a thrust bearing and, again, no bueno.

What flex are you running btw? Some are just not right because "aftermarket". I'm using a tci one (with a stock v6 trans and converter to get it running) and it was right in range. There also wasn't much excess thread on the converter studs so don't know how well too big of a spacer would work.
PA performance SFi flexplate , the converter is threaded itself and has bolts or studs . All the room with the JW bell it isn’t a pain in the ass use the bolts . With the washers seems it will still have plenty of engagement in the threads . I think you hit the nail on the head where this is one of those things lots of aftermarket parts trying to jive together .
 

TOOLOW91

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So I guess when i checked the flexplate and matched it to the converter bolt holes on the bench . They were off a hair so you’d get one in and the rest were off enough to not catch any threads in the converter .

You guessed it . I pulled the trans . Pulled the flex plate . Opened up the holes ever so slightly to make sure the bolt holes on the converter were now centered . Put the trans back in . Shimmed converter and that’s done . Tried to fit the headers and that’s a whole other story . Tomorrow is a new day . I’m burned out

Yes the center of the ds loop was trimmed for the TKO where the torque arm mount used to protrude through.

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Chuckman

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the converter hole thing is normal for aftermarket stuff. flexes are made to an 11.5" (?) pattern when it should be like 11 17/32 or something like that (1/32 or 1/16 larger, forget which) to match the factory converter.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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the converter hole thing is normal for aftermarket stuff. flexes are made to an 11.5" (?) pattern when it should be like 11 17/32 or something like that (1/32 or 1/16 larger, forget which) to match the factory converter.
I’m used to my clutches and tko . Anything else I work on has already been shimmed and all that stuff . Lmao

Here’s a pic for a laugh.

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