Supposed to be picking up a 1995 GT convertible tomorrow. Currently has stock tires and wheels and looking to upgrade. Nothing too crazy, just a cool looking set with the rear sticking out to about even with the fender lip, similar to this pic here. Car is stock height and I don't want to lower it. Mainly looking for the rear wheels to look better in the wheel well.
Any ideas what size and offset?

Thanks!

I have a 1993 mustang convertible, the problem is that the driver's window sometimes works the first day it didn't want to go up a few hours later it went up. Right now he doesn't want to come down. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

Hi there I am new here I have searched all over the place where would I open the hood of my 2002 Mustang GT I've pulled the latch to open the hood before but mine managed to fall out somewhere last month by itself I thought nothing of it and that I would get to it somewhere down the line to fix it (I need more pressing repairs I had thought) I now need to check under the hood but can't due to the latch being broken off I was wondering is there a way for me to open the hood if so how and where thank you guys for welcoming me in

Any recommendations for a quality sand paper on here......
I just purchased some Dura Gold and it seems to lose its granuals quickly?

Hi all,
I'm having a weird issue with my brake warning light.
I replaced the incandescent Illuminating light bulbs with LED's. I only replaced the 6 illuminating bulbs, now with the car parked E-brake ON and engine OFF I open the switch and no brake warning light shows on the dash, if I flip the parking lights ON the brakes warning light comes ON but if I release the E-brake handle the light stays ON. I don't have the stock E-brake handle, I replaced it with a newer adjustable one bot never had any issues before. Sometimes the brakes warning light stays OFF even after I flip the parking light ON, so there is too much inconsistencies... Where to focus my attention on to fix this issue?

Thank you all

My car is pretty much all taken apart right now since I’m getting ready to paint it soon. Now that the doors are all apart what are the bushings or wear parts that I could change in the doors for the windows?

Also my drivers side window sits higher than the passenger side when they’re both all the way down. You can see the drivers side window still sticking out when it’s all the way down. What’s the fix for this?

Hello,

I am chasing a problem that continues to get the best of me. The car runs great, but just dies. No power is lost inside, everything still works as it should. If I try to crank it without cycling the key it will crank forever and not start. As soon as I cycle the key it starts right back up.

When this happens I have had a fuel gauge on it, and it is not losing pressure.

I have replaced the TFI, PIP, COIL, IGNITION SWITCH, ECU.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Looking to possibly buy a 1995 Mustang GT 5.0 automatic convertible. Drove it last night and have a clicking or thumping under moderate braking and moderate acceleration. I can slightly feel it in my right foot under acceleration. Anyone have any thoughts on what it might be? Initial thoughts are possibly ball joint or bushings? Motor or trans mount? It doesn't do it every time. If I roll to a stop under easy brake pressure or pull out under easy acceleration it doesn't do it. Car is 100% stock as far as I can tell.
Hard to tell without crawling all over it but I don't own it yet so limited to what I can do. I used to drag race back in the 90's and built my own cars and engines so not afraid to get dirty so I'm ok with fixing any of these small issues. He did just have new struts put on it recently.
Thanks!

For those of you who have upgraded the fuel pump wiring, what gauge wire did you jump up to? Also, about the inertia cut off switch, did you bypass it or accept it's designed amp rating?

I'll be using a Foxbody inertia switch on a non ford vehicle as a safety to cut off pump in the event of a serious accident. The fuel pump wiring on that vehicle is way heavier than the wiring harness pigtail that plugs into the stock Ford inertia switch. I know on the Foxbody the inertia switch is directly in the + power feed to the pump itself.

On this other vehicle I'm mounting the inertia switch on the firewall. I wont be wiring it in to the main pump power line. Instead I have a choice. 1. wire it into the pump trigger wire between the PCM and fuel pump relay. 2. wire it in to the ignition feed that supply switching power for the relay itself. I'm leaning towards #2.

What are your opinions on how to utilize this inertia switch on this non ford project?

I’m rebuilding a 1994 5.0 for a project car. The rods need rehabbed, of course. By the time I buy ARP bolts and have the machine shop do their thing, it will be around $200. Looking through the Jeg’s website, I see aftermarket rods with a far superior design than stock for a little more than the required rehab work. Has anyone had any experience with these?

I've been in the fox forum for a long time but just got my hands on a 2002 Mustang Gt Steeda Stampede Q400. It came from Flrd with most of the bells and whistles Steeda could throw at it. Including a Vortech supercharger. It was too nice to pass up. There are a bunch of fake Steeda mustangs running around but this is number 2002-067.

I got an 04 gt I pulled the motor to fix my header gasket and when I put it back in and hooked everything back up the fuel pump wouldn’t kick on and the fuel pump is a newer pump it worked when I pulled the car in. I check fuses which they where good I have zero voltage at the ifs switch with the key on and one pin on the pump harness has power but the other doesn’t.

For anyone who runs 15 inch rims, how the hell do you guys find tires without spending a load of money? I got 225/60/15's on my car right now, but they have a lot of flat spots from sitting. I wanted to run something like 225's up front and either 235 or 245 in the back, but everywhere ive tried, i would have to special order them. If I cant find any tires, I might see how 16's fit on the 86 and see if i can run them without and rubbing issues.

Will sell them $260 local (Windsor CT / central CT area) or will ship anywhere contiguous US for $300

Used briefly for set-up with J-pipes that had CATs
Removed CATs after registration
Have hardware attached to flange
Coating in very good condition (some small scratches)
Actual FORD RACING parts, not cheap aftermarket ones

Well...this really isn't a fox...even though it's still a fox platform called a New Edge. This isn't the normal New edge though.

Thanks to @95steedamustang its been verified and I have the build sheet. This car is a 2002 Mustang Steeda Q400 number 067. Factory supercharged with all the bells and whistles except the 5 link rear. These were purchased through Ford and very rare. This example only has 38k.

Hi all,

Last year I got lotsa help from you to replace lower intake thanks again!

I’ve issue my car leaking oil I’ve read and make search on internet before asking and taking your precious time.

As a new bee if I understand from forums and videos, my car has problem with rear mean seal. Do I need to follow same steps as manual manual transmission or if it is not, which steps are different between a manual transmission?

I wonder is it possible for me to change rear mean seal as new bee an automatic transmission?

It looks like easy on this video:
Ps: English is not my main language, thanks for understanding and support. Fixing my mustang gives me tranquility, before I give a service to repair I just would like to get your useful opinions.


Här är Link if you want to see how it leaks

does anyone have the mechanical underhood parts breakdown I believe i have all the parts, dashboard reinstalled with dakota digital new evap/ heater coreeveerythin works except the vacuum switch, been ripped off twice looking for one of those, any help would be appreciated

I have a 2003 ford mustang v6 with the stock suspension set up I recently purchased a set of 17" x 9" cobra style rims for my car. Will they fit directly on my v6 without any clearance issues?

I've owned my 2003 Saleen S281 #198 for nearly 10 years. By far it's been my favorite car but times have changed and I no longer want to climb around on this thing to keep up the ever increasing maintenance. So next month it will go to a new owner. He actually owned it until 2008 when circumstances forced him to sell. He contacted me after searching for it on socials and asked if I was interested in selling so the deal was made.

I still have my dad's 07 GT500 that he is leaving to me so I'll still be in the fold but probably will be in a newer Stang this summer. I'll be sad to see if go though. It's a fantastic looking car.

Fidanza 96-04 2v 4.6 Mustang GT 6 Bolt Iron Flywheel - perfect shape, never used, just opened to see if it lined up. There is just a bit of dust on the flywheel from shipping.

Location - Williamsport PA

Payment - PayPal, local payment via cash

BIN price - $100 includes FREE USPS shipping

PM me directly for fast sale or post BIN SOLD

30+ years ago I pulled the 289 out of my '65 and took it apart (don't remember why) and traded the 3 speed for future machine work. I had bought a race 289 and had a Boss 351 Toploader that never ended up in the car. I purchased the aforementioned combo from a friend a year ago to put in the car, mainly to get it to move on its own, for $150 it was hard to turn down as a 'get by' combo.

I sent my motor mounts to a ChuckCoupe, a guy who built his own Daytona Coupe from scratch. I bought a set of mounts from CJ Pony Parts. Last night I started moving stuff around so I wasn't tripping over it all the time. I found a set of '66 up motor mounts I'd forgotten I had. I have extra pans, timing covers, etc. I'm trying to stay away from using 289 parts as possible, yet not spending a bunch of money. I'm trying to get the old girl moving under its own power so I don't have to push it around and hopefully motivate my son to help me work on it.

I know about brakes, wiring, etc, mainly concerned with getting the engine in and working.

Starting off, its a filthy mess but first off I ought to see if it turns over and maybe do a compression test. If it passes, throw some exhaust manifolds on it, throw it on the trailer after covering the throttle body and checking for any other opening and take it to the carwash for a bath.

At the bottom, the pan and pickup need changed, maybe the pump as well?

On the front, pull the timing cover so we can use the normal V-belt water pump, should be it up there, no? Now, I have no idea whether it has a fuel pump eccentric or not, but my tank is rotted out, so I plan on running an in-tank electric pump anyway eventually, so for now a small box pump and a gallon gas can will work, likely with a regulator.

So as far as induction, I know I said not to use 289 parts, but since its on top, thinking of using the iron intake and carb, plus I don't have the wiring harness that came with the engine, HOWEVER, I have an Explorer intake, wiring harness, computer, throttle body, fuel injectors and lines, etc. Actually I have another intake, throttle body, injectors and rails, just no harness. I think I have $75 for all of that.

I picked up some Fox Body tubular shorties with the ball & socket for free.

I'm not sure about a kickdown lever/cable, whatever the communicator to the AOD is.

As far as AOD, I have no idea if my stock driveshaft is the correct length, nor if the AOD splines vs the 3-speed spline are the same. Hoping at worse I just have to swap the yoke and not cut the shaft.

I have a 2000 Mustang, I am in the process of trying to diagnose, my obd scanner will not communicate with the car, I do have power to the OBD Port, and the scanner does work. Can anyone tell me why the port will not read scanner? In desperate need of help. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, the flare nut and the EGR valve threads are totally stripped out on my car and the nut won't hold the EGR tube in anymore. I've been looking for a replacement tube but can only find 1999-2004 listed parts. Will those fit on a 1998?

Hey guys I have a 92 mustang it’s been modified a bit edelbrock performer intake e cam I’ll take it for a little drive and it’ll pretty much install start trying to die I took it down the road today and back when it started acting up I hooked a fuel pressure gauge up and it had dropped down to 10 and when I rev it go down to 0 I have a video of it also thanks for the help

Hey all. So my 91 mustang speed master heads 190cc. X303 cam, megasquirt 2, msd6al. 42# injectors.

I have a misfire and a popping noise. The popping is intermittent. But the misfire is pretty consistent.

I replaced the plugs (they were black/soot covered) and cap and rotor. The wires are new last year as well as the coil and tfi module.

I have in wire test light. It shows good spark most of the time then it dies down and will then come back. As the motor has a hard time idling because of the xcam (low vacuum) I'm not a fan of it but will replace it when I get the budget to do it.

I have checked timing and I don't know where to from here?? Any help is appreciated.