Build Thread My Never Ending 89 Notch Thread

Well you’d have to run it in stock location . It only moves when you use the Vortech bracket or a low mount aftermarket bracket .
Yes I got that, now I know you have to notch the original alternator bracket, which I just bought a cut off tool from harbor. Can you do that with it in its location or is it easier to remove it and cut it out of the car?
 
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Yes I got that, now I know you have to notch the original alternator bracket, which I just bought a cut off tool from harbor. Can you do that with it in its location or is it easier to remove it and cut it out of the car?
I removed mine way back when i first did the alternator
 
Yes I got that, now I know you have to notch the original alternator bracket, which I just bought a cut off tool from harbor. Can you do that with it in its location or is it easier to remove it and cut it out of the car?

Its easier to notch that bracket out of the car. All the dust will be flying around you're engine bay.

Make sure you use a mask when cutting that aluminum with a cut off wheel. Also, be careful because that cut off wheel can load up with aluminum and go boom. It's better to use a knurl or cutting bit. ( i used a grinder with a cut off wheel ... it didnt go boom....but people say its possible )
 
Its easier to notch that bracket out of the car. All the dust will be flying around you're engine bay.

Make sure you use a mask when cutting that aluminum with a cut off wheel. Also, be careful because that cut off wheel can load up with aluminum and go boom. It's better to use a knurl or cutting bit. ( i used a grinder with a cut off wheel ... it didnt go boom....but people say its possible )
Ha well that sounds like fun, hopefully no boom!!! Still waiting on my alternator. Decided to stay with the black version, due to the possibility of not going V3 and getting the KB 2.1L hopefully if all is said and true on the re-release, to which I can keep it in the standard position.
 
Ha well that sounds like fun, hopefully no boom!!! Still waiting on my alternator. Decided to stay with the black version, due to the possibility of not going V3 and getting the KB 2.1L hopefully if all is said and true on the re-release, to which I can keep it in the standard position.
V3 over the Kb all day long .
 
Ordered the block plate that goes between the bell and the aod , also ordered the fancy arp intake stud kit . Incase I ever have to do intake gaskets again makes life like 8000 times easier .

Hopefully heads come this week so I can drop them off and get this pig finished
 
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V3 over the Kb all day long .
Ohhhhhhh ok!! Sorry not trying to turn your post into something off your topic but I’m looking for insight. It’s a big investment into either product, and I like both. What are your reasons for V3 over KB? I have been meaning to message you about another topic related to possibly stroking the motor which I’ll do today at some point.
 
Ohhhhhhh ok!! Sorry not trying to turn your post into something off your topic but I’m looking for insight. It’s a big investment into either product, and I like both. What are your reasons for V3 over KB? I have been meaning to message you about another topic related to possibly stroking the motor which I’ll do today at some point.
Vortech in my opinion and from what I have seen produce some of the most efficient compressors on the market . Twin screws esp non intercooled heat soak fast . We have seen it first hand on the Dyno where the twin screw even with a a2w intercooler starts to drop off power over the graph as it gets hotter and hotter .

The Vortech while it naturally is going to drop off some when it gets hot in my opinion is more efficient and the power just stays linear . We have back to back pulled my own car and over 6 pulls or so have been within 7whp of where we started on the first pull .

You don’t have a big enernonmous blower in the way either that blocks you from doing just about anything on top of the motor without removing it. As far as low end torque comments - my s trim was making over 500 ftlbs of torque at 2800 rpm . The ysi was even more . Stab pedal and it’s all out violent . I think the twin screw deal is more hype . They both work for sure it’s just what you prefer and why . People may say I am a bit biased due to my backcround over the last few years so I try to stay out of the debates sometimes .
 
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I would disagree with you since I'm a pd blower kind of guy.... but they have recently done testing using a larger than necessary blower and pully it for big boost, then use a "wastegate" or set of them to release the excess pressure. The result is a maintained pressure that looks just like a pd blower graph but with less heat. Genius.

Now stack that up against some of the newer style PD blowers and the benefits start to drop off and come closer to equal, then there is the addition of methonal injection but that is another topic entirely.

But that's big money and imo beyond the entry level hobbyist.
 
Ohhhhhhh ok!! Sorry not trying to turn your post into something off your topic but I’m looking for insight. It’s a big investment into either product, and I like both. What are your reasons for V3 over KB? I have been meaning to message you about another topic related to possibly stroking the motor which I’ll do today at some point.
There is a 1.5l KB for sale on Ebay right now.... only 1400$
 
I would disagree with you since I'm a pd blower kind of guy.... but they have recently done testing using a larger than necessary blower and pully it for big boost, then use a "wastegate" or set of them to release the excess pressure. The result is a maintained pressure that looks just like a pd blower graph but with less heat. Genius.

Now stack that up against some of the newer style PD blowers and the benefits start to drop off and come closer to equal, then there is the addition of methonal injection but that is another topic entirely.

But that's big money and imo beyond the entry level hobbyist.


I’m not saying they don’t work so don’t take it that way . I’m just telling you what we have encountered first hand on the Dyno . As far as using a wastegate I have spoke to Vortech in person about it and there was a reason they weren’t doing it . Either way everyone has there own flavor I just wanted to throw my two cents in for whatever it’s worth .
 
I’m not saying they don’t work so don’t take it that way . I’m just telling you what we have encountered first hand on the Dyno . As far as using a wastegate I have spoke to Vortech in person about it and there was a reason they weren’t doing it . Either way everyone has there own flavor I just wanted to throw my two cents in for whatever it’s worth .
lol no problem i was agreeing with your first statement in a roundabout way, there is no denying that the belt driven turbo is more efficient.
 
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Battery cut off ordered .

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I try to stay out of the debates sometimes .
Same. I try to just explain the differences. I've had both types. The deciding factor for me is what I want from the car. The V3 kit is newer an def allows more room to grow and will make more HP. Lots of folks get to the end of a 2.1L KB but they want more. If you think this is you (figuratively), I would not get the KB kit. The Fox KB kit is for folks who want the 400+ HP range with gobs of torque. It makes a great Street-Light-Warrior and awesome road cruiser.

Remember folks: The Fox KB kit was designed to compete with a V1 S-Trim. Blowers have certainly improved since the V1. Add an after-cooled kit to a V3 and it's all over. It's not even a fair comparison anymore IMHO.

That's about as straight as I can think of a way to compare these particular two blowers.
 
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Starting tucking some of the harness tonight and got the battery cut off switch mounted
 

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