Build Thread My Never Ending 89 Notch Thread

So I have a small leak I have to address out of the shifter level hole. Already got a new seal

Overdrive with the original relay setup from FB would only come out if you downshifted . Bought his 5 relay setup and now it will down shift when you click rhe button which is awesome on the highway and stuff

Bumper was wet sanded and buffed yesterday .

Other bad news . I noticed oil on my right side VC which is where the blow off valve is . So I assumed the blower was seeping . Checked it out and it was spoke to Vortech it on its way for seals . I’m not sure if the oil type and Viscostity change causes the seal to shrink or what .

Changed plugs . They look awesome zero oil or anything on them . Changed oil before the pa trip looks great .

My only gripe is I’d like a few more cranking amps out of the battery so eventually I need to look into a bigger batt .
This weekend I drove the car over 300 miles in less then 24 hours and for a sub 700 plus wheel horsepower car I couldn’t be happier
 
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ah ok, I plan on doing a 4r70w for the 393.. already built my transmission controller, I dont want to have to press a button for OD ect... and I am doing paddle shifters ect.
Yeah no real choice with a manual VB . I don’t mind . It’s like driving manual still same thought process . This thing is good for 1200

That’s how I have it setup
507EFD00-14E5-4F11-A99A-387DDE52B5C8.jpeg
 
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Very nice, you always do clean installs. My power goals are more humble so a stock 4r out of a 03-04 V6 should get the job done just fine. I like to tune so thats another reason. I cant help but tinker.....
Nice thing is i can pull timing on shifts with my software, it only happens for a micro second but thats what will let me tune that trans to survive the TQ of the 393 on a hard run.
I cant wait to see what yours does on the dyno.
 
Very nice, you always do clean installs. My power goals are more humble so a stock 4r out of a 03-04 V6 should get the job done just fine. I like to tune so thats another reason. I cant help but tinker.....
Nice thing is i can pull timing on shifts with my software, it only happens for a micro second but thats what will let me tune that trans to survive the TQ of the 393 on a hard run.
I cant wait to see what yours does on the dyno.
Thanks bro I really appreciate the compliment . I try to do the best I can and each time learn how I could make it better next time .

4r70 done right are known to hold some stout power .
 
What a weekend . So the blower will be back on weds , new seals all taken care of by the boys at Vortech which i am thankful for.
So yesterday i move the car out to pull a vert in im doing some side work on . I look at the dash as im pulling it in and realize it isnt charging. WTF. So i get my meter out and go to the back of the alt and the readings are all over the place. I go to my circuit breaker in line and what do I find ? the wire basically toast to a crisp again. Remember this happened once before but i was spinning the alt at like 32k rpm and didnt realize. This time it has the right pulleys. Both times it did this it had a cheap value craft replacement alt in it. So finally i went to autozone and i still had the warrenty . I got the guy to return mine and then i used that credit and added on top to get a brand new non reman unit. I installed it along with a new 2 awg piece of welding cable back to the breaker. All seems well so far.

Then i drained the trans ( a mess as usual) to fix the shifter lever seal leak. The lever had a burr i missed in it and i think thats what tore it up so i cleaned it up. New seal , fluid back in . Seems ok so far fingers crossed.

Yes that voltage is real at idle. Thank god it burned the wire or else i think id have no holley ecu as well as anything else in the car.
 
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I think I'd like to try the manual VB before I yank the auto altogether. My concerns are downshifting - Say you're rolling at 60-70. Can you just bump the gas slightly and downshift in the 'no load' time after the throttle blip, or do you even have to do that - as in, just downshift and go. Are there any other things you should/shouldn't do?
 
I think I'd like to try the manual VB before I yank the auto altogether. My concerns are downshifting - Say you're rolling at 60-70. Can you just bump the gas slightly and downshift in the 'no load' time after the throttle blip, or do you even have to do that - as in, just downshift and go. Are there any other things you should/shouldn't do?
That part has been a learning curve . I wouldn’t down shift at 60-70 unless from over drive to 3rd which is just off the button . If I down shift I’ll slow down to 30-40 to go down into second usually just coasting so to speak and then I’ll roll back in . It does make it still fun to drive it’s just very different vs a 5 speed . I’d do the Freddy brown valve body for sure
 
That part has been a learning curve . I wouldn’t down shift at 60-70 unless from over drive to 3rd which is just off the button . If I down shift I’ll slow down to 30-40 to go down into second usually just coasting so to speak and then I’ll roll back in . It does make it still fun to drive it’s just very different vs a 5 speed . I’d do the Freddy brown valve body for sure
Yeah, that's how my OD is now. It's wired to my rear defrost button, hit it 2x and locks out OD. I guess there really isnt much reason to be downshifting passed that now that I think about it.
 
So after being in the hospital with blood in my
Left lung . I am back , not 100 percent but I did sneak outside before . Trans is bone dry .

Changes the catch can fitting . Made a new blower drain and put a 60 on instead of a 90 . Seems to have a way better direct path to the pan . Took the car out for 30 min tonicht . Don’t smell oil dripping any more . Seems the valve cover is dry and not really soaked . Some residual by the bov but I expected that I haven’t really got on it and I let it see 5 psi at like 1/4 throttle . I think we are going to have a fun car here .
 
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