Just trying to figure out what I need to do from when I do engine modifications for my mustang. I would like to do a explorer heads and intake swap with the gt40 heads not the gt40p because of the spark pug angle. For a cam I pan on getting something mild and was looking at the summit racing e303+ cam (different than the ford e303) but would love to hear other cheap and drivable cams.

With these mods I have heard that I need a tune and also that the stock computers are finicky. Can I get my stock computer tuned to work with the mods I want? Or should I get a different computer? Was looking at one of the mega squirt computers because they can plug directly into the stock harness. Any thoughts or should I look at another aftermarket management system.

Also on a side note does anyone know for a mild cam what springs should I use with the gt40 heads, can I use the stock Ho springs from the 7e head from the mustang motor, what spring rate should I look for with a mild cam, and do I need different rockers?

Lots of questions hope I posted this in the right section of the form as well.

I have a 2002 GT Coupe that I bought 4 years ago that already had an aftermarket radio that uses the Mach 460 system, and it worked great. About 2 weeks ago I was driving home from college and I noticed that all my music had lost its bass. So after some investigating it's only playing through the 4 tweeter speakers that the match 460 has but not playing through the other 4 bass speakers (2 in door and 2 above rear seats). I checked the fuse for the rear amps and it is good. I also checked the connector behind the kickplate on the drivers side and that was fine and had 12 volts of power to it. I'm thinking maybe the amps died or something but can anyone else point me in the right direction as to testing for power to the amplifiers or tell me what they think is wrong?

Hi guys I have a 1993 mustang LX and it won't start. The car has power it turns the lights on and everything. When I try to start the car it doesn't crank. The starter works but it won't crank.

Any ideas?

Maybe it's the ignition switch?

This MS plugs right into your 94/95 Mustang harness and makes it completely tunable with the laptop and software provided.

Bought all of it in the past year and have never installed any of it so it's all brand new in the box. New, the MS is $860 plus shipping, the A/F gauge is $230 plus shipping and the laptop (also brand new) was $100 with the software (TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer) being around $80.

It's literally everything you need to have MegaSquirt in your 94/95 Mustang GT.

I'd take $1300, shipped (Cont US) for all of it,

Hello,

I've got a 2003 Mach 1 with just over 100K miles. I've owned the car for not quite a year and found there is something that has me a bit concerned. It's a manual car and even though I've driven manuals before I've never owned one until now. What has me on edge is this, going from dead stop to moving isn't a problem but when shifting from 1st into 2nd and 2nd into 3rd the car wants to jerk like I let the clutch out too soon then after 3rd it's not too bad. What is also odd is if I let off the gas to coast and then apply the gas at anything but a easing it will again jerk. I'm not touching the clutch when I'm coasting but it will still do it. Please let me know what I'm dealing with here so I can get it fixed, thank you.

Just got a 2005 Roush , vin 1ZVFT82H555173992. The extractor R03010062, on the fascia on the passenger side is missing. Been looking but not having any success in locating that part. Even contacted Roush and they suggested I look online. Any suggestions? Thinking I may need to get it done by a scan and 3D printing. Thanks

I just recently purchased my 84 mustang with 87 front clip and the previous owner had lost the keys and had drilled out the ignition lock cylinder. Not sure if he drilled it in the wrong spot or not but I cannot get the dang thing out. The pin lock on the side of the cylinder has been drilled out as well.

Did he just not drill far enough ? He went what looks like 1 1/2 - 1 5/8" deep. I see the pins on the bottom trailing towards the back on the cylinder. The first 4 are gone and there is still one or two I see in the back.

Where the drill bit stopped looks to be solid metal.

Any suggestions?

About to redo all the brakes and get it running. Hasn't been started in a few weeks. 393w forged bottom aluminum headed 770 carb stealth intake with a 150 pill of nitrous but set up for 300. 12-1 comp. 100oct when I go through town. Renegade Pro nitrous 120 Oct at the strip. 0 runs G force T-5 4.11's beefed up 8.8.

Hi all, my son and I are the proud recipients of a family owned 65 coupe. It’s been restored approximately 30 years ago, though it was done half baked in my opinion.
It currently has an I6, auto tranny, and 7.5” rear. Plans are to scrap all that, or sell if someone wants/needs it for an OEM resto project.
I can’t contribute much knowledge pertaining to stangs yet but hope to learn lots and eventually be able to contribute later.

I have a 1984 5.0 5-speed Mustang.

I recently had a new 4-barrel carburetor (Holley 4160) installed.

With the new carburetor, my car is idling at 1000 RPM.

Is this correct?

If not, what should its idle RPM be?

Thanks--

Emailed DYiAutoTune early October about being able to do sequential injection rather than batch fire as the MSPNP 2 currently does. Ben Berusch emailed me back and said they are working sequential version of the ECU that will have some other advancements as well. He went on to say that he has that car on the dyno now and is hoping to have that hardware into production for release this winter or next spring.

He asked if I was in the Atlanta area as he might need one or two more test cars. If I was close I’d jump all over that but not the case unfortunately.

This is more of an FYI and also a fishing expedition to see if any of you have heard this as well. I really want to move to the MSPNP but I do not want to go to SD. Just a personal preference.

Hi all,
My ‘90 GT 306 has been running great until two days ago. I started it in my garage put it in reverse and as I released the clutch pedal it just died. Tried to re-start it but just span without firing up.

I the started paying attention and the fuel pump was dead quiet zero priming. Yesterday I kept trying to hear that pump without any response. I have a 190 lph pump.
I started checking the system and found no problems:
* Fuel Inertia Switch good (No tripped)
* Fuel Pump Relay good
* EEC Relay good
* Turned key to ON and heard the fuel pump relay actuating.
* Left the ign. Switch ON jumped the fuel pump at the diagnostic port, I heard the EEC relay switching ON, zero priming. Went to the the rear and unplugged the fuel pump/sending unit connector and measures the voltage and had 12 volts. Connected the fuel pump to the battery and ran fine!
Thinking on a loose connection at The pump harness, I snugged the female terminals with a small screwdriver. Removed the jumper at the diagnostic port and turned the ignition switch OFF . Back to the rear and plugged the pump harness., turned the ign. Switch ON and bingo!!! The pump is priming!!!!! Did it a few times and worked fine!!!
My question is: What the heck was wrong? Did I have just a loose connection at the pump harness, or was the pump stacked and just got free? Or is it my pump that is going bad???? Never had this problem before, and really don’t want to do the same failure while out in the road.
Any help and ir suggestions will be greatly appreciated, specially from anyone of you that had experienced the same situation. Sorry about the long post , just want to give all the details of what I’ve done.
Thank you!!!

I have a 2008 ford 4.6L mustang I bought recently. I got it off auction so I don't know anything about the vehicles mod history.

From what I can tell, the owner put on Borla exhausts, cams, and a tune. The owner left his original SCT XCalibrator 2 tune installer with 2 tunes and 1 stock tune on it.

I need to pass I/M readiness, but my Cat, O2, and O2 heater sensors are incomplete. Ive tried all the drive cycles I can find, and have put on over 150 miles trying to get them to complete.

I wonder if the tune has the rear O2 sensors turned off to keep the MIL from turning on. I'm also wondering if the high flow muffler delete Borla exhaust’s will affect the completion of the sensors.

Ive read in other forums that people go back to stock exhausts and stock tune and have the issue fixed that way. But I don't have the luxury of having the stock exhausts with me. Ive read about other people putting plates in their exhausts to restrict airflow and allow the CAT to heat up to the correct activation temp.

If you guys have any solutions or any ideas, let me know! Ive been trying to fix this issue for the past month, and I need to pass inspection asap in 2 weeks. Any help is greatly appreciated

Will be permanently removing the speedo cable from a Fox Mustang and want to plug the hole in the firewall. Has anyone done this and if so which plug did you use? I know I could just silicone up the one the cable passes through but would prefer a new plug with no hole.

After 25+ years (and 3 minivans), I am officially a Mustang owner once again. I acquired a '90 LX 5.0 from my brother-in-law who has had it stored in his garage for many years. I am sure I will be reaching out with requests for help as I work to get it road worthy.

My past Mustangs were an '85 GT convertible and a '89 LX 5.0.

Thanks in advance for contributing to posts with questions I have (even the dumb ones).

By chance would anyone have a scanned copy of the instruction manual for the Ford Motorsport SVO device pictured that they could upload to this thread? The part number is 92EM-6000-A0 and it is dated 3/6/1994.

Background: I just acquired a '90 LX 5.0 and am collecting info on the various aftermarket parts that were added. I get the basic function as a modifier to the ECU to up the RPM limit and force a specific air/fuel ratio. I was hoping to get a copy of the manual to better understand the details and the specific meaning of the individual settings (a dial under each of the two plastic plugs on the face panel).

Need a pulley in a bad way. Anybody have one laying around?

So I have a bm hammer shifter in my 91 mustang gt automatic aod with a lmr kickdown.it seems like the hammer shifter is broken so I'm trying to put the stock shifter back in and I'm having no luck at all, I have new plastic bushing what can I use to make this work

Hi, I have a 1990 5.0 with 99-04 mustang spindles/ caliper conversion. I am recently experiencing brake sticking at the front when I drive for about 15-20 mins. I’ve recently replaced the stock brake booster for a 1993 cobra booster and thought it was the adjusting rod but I backed it all the way off to eliminate that being the issue. After that I replaced my brake calipers ,rotors, pads and both cables… bled air and took for a test drive. After 15-20 mins I had the same brake smell and car was still braking on its own as I experienced prior to replacing parts. Master cylinder is new . After the drive I jacked the front end and I needed a bit of effort to turn the wheels by hand. Any help much appreciated.!

Anyone know where I can find a pair of Mustang II motor mounts for a 1976 Cobra Mustang II?
Thanks,
Kurt

Im in south Ga, been pulling wrenches for a long time.
Ive got a 1995 with a stroked 3.8 and 5 speed.
Kind of happened into the car but it has grown on me. Im sure I'll have some technical questions and maybe I can help a little bit too.

I have an issue starting the car with the key the previous owner had put a push start button with the wire leading to the starter solenoid and recently that had stopped working as well I’ve checked the ignition switch located under the steering wheel and it looks like it’s still on there pretty good and I also have an issue with the fuel pressure being < 10psi with the relay constantly clicking and the fuel pump staying on after I turn the key and never shutting off and thus I looked at the inertia switch in the trunk and I didn’t have any current on either side of the switch so maybe that’s the issue? I hope these pictures help and if you have any questions please ask! Thanks stang community!

I bought a 2002 GT with a paxton novi 1000 on it and im pretty sure based off my googling its got the: Lucas USA - Marine, 38#hr - 400cc/min, 12 ohms injectors based off the EV1 look and the part number on them “D1163BA.” but i want to see if anyone knows a decent upgrade to ev6 or ev14 that wouldn’t require a retune. What i want is the better MPG and atomization that comes with the more modern injectors over the less efficient single pintle style. I can post pictures of them if needed

Thinking of putting on the cobra style under drive pulleys that lmr sells on my car along with deleting the smog pump. I’m thinking of the cobra style because from what I’m reading lmr says that they aren’t arent a big enough reduction to cause charging or cooling issues. Does anyone have these pulleys on their car and could tell me if you notice a difference when driving?
In regards to the smog delete, is there any negatives that go along with doing this? My car does not have cats. Also, I believe I know everything you have to do when doing the delete the only thing I was curious about was how you go about plugging the vac lines that would normally go into the vacuum operated valves in the smog pump plumbing.
Also does anyone run this setup with the lmr cobra pulleys, and a shorter belt that bypasses their smog pump and could tell me what size belt is needed?