Finished welding up and smoothing the firewall As well as the passenger side of the bay.
Progress Thread “Rising from Ashes 7” 85 GT T-Top build thread
- Thread starter 95steedamustang
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Next step on my rust repair was going in with a grinder and small carbide bits and knocking all the surface rusty areas.
Next I sprayed some rust converter and let that sit for 24 hrs. Finally I hit the whole framerail
With my dustless blaster and got everything else. Forgot to take pic. Finally I coated the heck
Out of the whole framerail with 5 coats of epoxy.
Now ready for the outer metal to be replaced
Next I sprayed some rust converter and let that sit for 24 hrs. Finally I hit the whole framerail
With my dustless blaster and got everything else. Forgot to take pic. Finally I coated the heck
Out of the whole framerail with 5 coats of epoxy.
Now ready for the outer metal to be replaced
Time to finish off the frame rail rust repair. I used 16 gauge metal which is overkill compared to factory thickness and sand the backside of the repair piece. Then coat it with weld thru primer. Weld in place. Make sure the bead is thick even if its not pretty. Dont want any holes in the metal that water can get in.
Next is to rebuild the sway bar mount. Instead Of using the rusty old metal I cut off. Just going to fab new mounts and box it in to match the other side. Before boxing in coat in weld thru primer.
Finally just more welding of holes on the upper cowl
Next is to rebuild the sway bar mount. Instead Of using the rusty old metal I cut off. Just going to fab new mounts and box it in to match the other side. Before boxing in coat in weld thru primer.
Finally just more welding of holes on the upper cowl
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Aside from continuing the work on the unbelievable car that this will undoubtedly become...... you just made me feel a lot better about my welding skills!! LolTime to finish off the frame rail rust repair. I used 16 gauge metal which is overkill compared to factory thickness and sand the backside of the repair piece. Then coat it with weld thru primer. Weld in place. Make sure the bead is thick even if its not pretty. Dont want any holes in the metal that water can get in.
Next is to rebuild the sway bar mount. Instead Of using the rusty old metal I cut off. Just going to fab new mounts and box it in to match the other side. Before boxing in coat in weld thru primer.
Finally just more welding of holes on the upper cowl
Yea. It doesnt matter. Anytime your working with thin sheetmetal and then using heavier gauge metal, it not going to be pretty. It just needs to be solid and the more weld the better because you’ll shave most of it off anyway. And when you blow thru the stock metal. Just try and do a quick weld on one side of the hole and build your weld off that.
Do you use a Copper plate on the back side when welding up the holes? Like this Amazon product ASIN B0821VR5CVView: https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Welding-Welders-Helper-Curved/dp/B0821VR5CV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=copper+welding+spoon&qid=1643807249&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3AY4XM7YGOKIF&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySFUxNlZWVkZQRjRaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTI0ODQzMkJFNjFBUDI5VlNSVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTgzODU5MkkzUE1MTldQVkpJWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Yes. Whenever accessible. Have about 20 variations of that. This is a favorite
Finished up the welding. Now for the stud puller and some body. Even the engine bay has to be straight
Maybe I missed it...... did you weld nuts to the sway bar mount before you covered those spots?Finished up the welding. Now for the stud puller and some body. Even the engine bay has to be straight
Yanked the old K member out so I could have an easier time grinding and smoothing all the welds. Going thru that process now
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looks soooo familiar
Finally done with the grinding and almost ready for epoxy on the entire front clip.
Stripped and smoothed every inch of front metal
Stripped and smoothed every inch of front metal
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