Progress Thread SN95 "Project Father & Son" 1994 GT

This car is testing my last nerve. I'm about to sell everything, trade in my SUV and buy a new Mustang.

Put the lower intake on with new Edelbrock 12-point / Part Number: 8524 ($30.00) and two of them on the driver side just spun. I did step 1 torquing procedure which was fine but step 2 at 22 pounds I ran into this problem. I used some stock bolts laying around and it seemed to work but I won't know until it's running.

I'm still waiting for my 24 pound fuel injectors. I hate buying from people sometimes, guy said he'll ship when he has time. I bought them 8 days ago. I'm also waiting for my fuel injectors plugs / connectors. Bought them on eBay, tracking said they should have arrived Saturday. They didn't of course.

Since I now had time I fixed some cosmetic issues. The caster camber plates, A/C lines and some connectors need the ceramic black treatment. At least this came our great.

Threw the upper intake on to figure out the vacuum lines. Not going to be running the vacuum tree.

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Well a dude on the Corral told me to depin and repin the injector connectors. In my haste of being annoyed I was just going to solder 8 new injectors on my wiring harness. He told me what to do and an hour later I had brand new fuel injector connectors. Some of them were so bad, check the pics.

Remove the yellow / orange locking clip then the lock for the wires and they pulled right out.

I thought I was getting my 24 pound Denso Blue Injectors yesterday. Been bugging the dude for over a week to send me tracking. Well I heard from him last night, sort of. I got a PayPal refund of my money. Guess it was a scam and in my constant hounding he thought better of it. Guess he didn't have injectors to sell. My son had found these on FaceBook (I don't have FB so not sure how it works). Now I"m on the lookout for Denso blue 24 pound injectors again.

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No not running yet, I'm still waiting on my 24 pound injectors that have been delayed because of the winter ice storm. I think Tuesday is the day.

In the meantime I worked on the following:

*Cold Air Kit - The car came with the BBK/MAC style which I'm not a fan of. I wanted a short straight shot to the intake so I modified it.
*Fuel Injector Connectors - Replaced all of them with new ones and rewrapped the harness.
*Vacuum Lines - bought all new lines and all in place.
*Side Skirts - car didn't come with any but found a dude on Craigslist with some black ones. I sanded and primed them but no clips to hold in place.
*To Do List - install the Booster and clutch cable under the dash, install sway bar bushings, install end links, install tie rod ends, wet sand the exterior.

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BEFORE PIC the day we brought it home.

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Well now I know why the front end suspension is so sloppy.

Maybe one of you can steer me in the direction of how to remove and install new bushings on the stock A-Arms. I've watched YouTube videos using a ball joint tool. Any luck with these? New ones are like $200 for the pair when Poly Bushings are only $30. I already have OEM ball joints ready to go.
Sway Bar Bushings were not only rotting but the material was falling apart in my hands.

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The Ball Joints are collapsed, torn, have dirt inside them and provide zero support.

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The bushings in the A- Arm are also shot. Guess I'll just buy new A-Arms. I have OEM Ball Joints but don't have any kind of press for removal and installation. I'll search around.

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You should be able to rent a press locally from a parts store, no?

I would press or burn out the rubber and install poly bushings up front. That's the plan for my Mercury.
 
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You should be able to rent a press locally from a parts store, no?

I would press or burn out the rubber and install poly bushings up front. That's the plan for my Mercury.

Since new A-Arms are almost $200 for the pair I'm thinking about buying a Harbor Freight 12 ton press for $129 plus 20% coupon. I'll still spend about $200 (press plus poly bushings) anyway but gain a press in the process.

I believe Auto Part stores only rent the ball joint kit that uses a C-Clamp and universal adapters.

Got a feeling these rear calipers will need to be replaced, we had one lock up on a test drive before I started the intake install. I also broke the driver side rear ABS sensor and those aren't cheap either.

This car is really pressing my last nerve. Everything will be replaced and I mean everything at this point.
 
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Since new A-Arms are almost $200 for the pair I'm thinking about buying a Harbor Freight 12 ton press for $129 plus 20% coupon. I'll still spend about $200 (press plus poly bushings) anyway but gain a press in the process.

I believe Auto Part stores only rent the ball joint kit that uses a C-Clamp and universal adapters.

Got a feeling these rear calipers will need to be replaced, we had one lock up on a test drive before I started the intake install. I also broke the driver side rear ABS sensor and those aren't cheap either.

This car is really pressing my last nerve. Everything will be replaced and I mean everything at this point.
Haha. I meant a ball joint press. Never found a place that will rent out an entire shop press.

Good idea on the press, though. I'd love to snatch one up, but I really don't have a place to put it in the garage. I'm pretty much out of space.
 
Haha. I meant a ball joint press. Never found a place that will rent out an entire shop press.

Good idea on the press, though. I'd love to snatch one up, but I really don't have a place to put it in the garage. I'm pretty much out of space.

I don't either but in a few years I'm selling my house and moving onto 5 acres where I plan to build a shop. I'm going to need all this stuff anyway. They make a 6 ton table top press.

I think for now I'm going to replace just the ball joints and leave the bushings in. At some point I'm switching to a K-Member so I'll get tubular A-Arms then.
 
This is the 2nd time I've ordered injectors and had a problem.

The first guy never had the injectors and after bugging and threatening him he refunded my money.

This is the second dude, bought on eBay from Salvage Yard and this is how they arrived. A homemade box with some cotton and the injectors thrown inside. I'm really surprised there wasn't more damage that only 1 injector. Now I'm fighting with him about getting this one resolved. Friggin 2 year old boxed this.

I've been waiting on injectors for 1 month now, only engine item I need to fire this car up after all the work that's been done.

I think I need a long break.

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I would check out eBay, I bought a injector kit that included the injector filters as well as the caps and o-rings.

This is pretty close to what I used on my last set of injectors:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=263888272479

Rebuilding the injectors isn't very hard, and that set needs some cleanup anyway. The hardest part is getting the filters out.

The pintle caps on your set are different that I have seen on other EV1 injectors. I hope the tip of the injector didn't get damaged when the cap broke. The pic is kinda blurry (or my eyes are).
 
I would check out eBay, I bought a injector kit that included the injector filters as well as the caps and o-rings.

This is pretty close to what I used on my last set of injectors:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=263888272479

Rebuilding the injectors isn't very hard, and that set needs some cleanup anyway. The hardest part is getting the filters out.

The pintle caps on your set are different that I have seen on other EV1 injectors. I hope the tip of the injector didn't get damaged when the cap broke. The pic is kinda blurry (or my eyes are).

I have that exact kit, tried to fix the old injectors (ones that came with the car) with this kit but the blue pintles would not fit at all. In fact the ones I got onto the injector just tore at the top, that's how tight it was. Maybe it'll work better on these injectors, I'll figure that out tonight.

The eBay seller wanted to buy me that kit but I told him to wait since I had it. He doesn't have another 24 pound injector to send me as a replacement (so he says). I'm going to figure it out first.

The tip of the injector is still intact, doesn't look damaged. Guess we will find out.

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In non fuel injector related news.

I finally got the driver side ball joint out, rented a kit at the local Auto Parts store.

Of course installing the new ball joint went all wrong. It went in quite easily and I thought finally!!!!!!! NOPE!!!! The rubber boot tore. I don't know how as nothing was touching it during the install but now I have to remove and buy another set.

I swear this car is testing me.

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Great looking build and love the detail you're putting into it.

I recently replaced the ball joints and bushings on my 92 GT. I was able to remove the boot from the ball joint then reinstall it once the ball joint was seated.

Replacing the bushings was a PITA! At least for me. I had access to a press at work, but couldn't get the things in the press right to get them out. I ended up getting as much of the old rubber out as I could then burning the rest out. I used a sawsall to get the inner metal sleeve out. Then a ball joint press, part of a spherical bushing replacement tool, a vice, and a hammer to install the new bushings. I've got pictures if you're interested.
 
Probably not a good idea but I ran out of options. The one injector tip broke in 3 pieces and I had them (they were large). Well I JB Weld them together and honestly I think the plastic is stronger on this one then the ones without. The ones without seem to be really fragile. I was tempted to run JB Weld around all of them for extra support but didn't.

After about 4 hours I did the install of the injectors. It actually went really smooth. Vaseline both tips and they snapped right in no problem.

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Here is the ball joint tear.

I think the ball joint fell out / down from the A-Arm and I didn't clear the rubber out of the hole. I had the ball joint cover over it so I couldn't see that rubber wasn't above. That's the only way this would have happened. There is no easy way to start the install process because you can just force it up by hand and it'll stay. I'm going to have my son make sure the rubber is clear before cranking.

I bought another pair of ball joints, coming on Monday.

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