I have a 1999 mustang gt v8 4.6 anniversary addition..anti theft has shut everything down and i have tried everything the dealership wont take anything over 10 years old and its costing me a lot of money and no success if i get another pcm put in will it fix the issue or will they have to reflash the car as well..please help

I recently removed my battery to clean the tray and surrounding area of coolant (had a hose blow up a few weeks prior). I put the battery back in, started it up, and drove to the gas station. After i tried turning it back on, it just made a rapid clicking noise. Got a jump, started right up. So now its only starting when I jump it, its starting right up and running decent, a little low on voltage though according to the dash. I think I must have broken some connection when i was taking out the battery, theres a lot of brittle wires near the solenoid. The battery is at 12.6 V when the car is off. Around 12 V when running, and around 14 when I rev it up a little. So all this tells me that: Alternator, battery, and starter are all good. I took off the negative battery cable while it was running to check the alternator and it died immediately, but im still gaining voltage when i rev it. Im very confused now and not super good with wiring can someone point me in the direction of what i should check next?

Question ladies and gents. So just transformed my 94 Cobra and took out the 280 plus stock engine and put in my 190k HCI 302 from my other car, took the suspension components off as well and went with a new set of wheels. Before my 95 got hit in 2015 I had recently maybe a yr or 2 prior had front suspension work done (ball joints, bushings and sway bar endlinks) and also put on J&M rear lower control arms. I have eibach lowering springs and tokiko hp blue struts and shocks, and also put on my Hotchkis CC plates from the other car. I can't remember if the 95 had that same feel to it like what this car feels like for instance when changing lanes it feels sorta stiffer to move and not like as smooth per say or maybe it just doesn't have any play and that's just the way these cars are. I don't drive any of my cars enough to really monitor or remember from one car to the next rather they all feel like that or not but I do know what slop is and it's not loose or anything.

Also changed from the 95 to this 94 is I had Saleen 18 x 9 with 265 35 18 on front and 18x10 with 295 35's. Now I have Forgestar F14 18 x 9 semi deep concave with 275 35 18 and 18 x 11 super deep concave with 315 30 18s. Not sure if those changes alone also would make a difference in the feel and more stiff?

Update:
Well as I stated I think I stated that I might have been tripping and because I don't drive the car that often, on the way home trying several things it's fine I guess I was tripping LOL

Introduction of build:
So ----started a build around 2008---had a really Long build thread with Pics on another site - Got Lost to Time.
Dang it.
Stopped build around 2013 = Life.
Now - Have a 15 year old kiddo <girl> that wants to finish build it and drive it to Skool. AWESOME!
So this summer will be a press to get it back together - will document in this thread.


Here are the details (Or what I thought in 2008): <Pulled relevant Excerpt to here>
-2 prior owners (2nd owner never drove it and immediately began dissassembly).
-True 'barn find' ... well shed really.
-The car is FULLY documented...I even have pictures dated March 1968 with the owners hand writing on the back about adding a shelby spoiler (He must've never got around to it). (and all protectoplate stuff and manuals)
- Original: 'J-Code' 302-4 barrel, Highland Green, 3.25 axle ratio, 3-Speed Manual, GT Equip Group, AC, AM Radio, Reflective Group, Remote LH Mirror, Wheel Lip Moulding, Electric Clock.
-Aside from the second owner taking the engine, tranny, and font clip off (I have them) this car is 100% complete. The engine looks like it did in 1968 (It's just rustier and not in the car).
- VERY minor rust issue in the lip of the trunk. No other rust on the vehicle that I could find. Right side looks like he drug a highway marker or something down it and did a basic repair and cheap-o repaint.
...Reading the above ---yikes was I wrong about the rust and body work...

Here are some pics:
1968 State:





My 'Start' State:







My start

Was looking on the used market and I found a good deal for valve springs. These are them new https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-16315-16. I was just woundering if I put these springs with a mild cam shaft like an e303/ stage one cam equivalent or even the stock HO cam is this bad? Will this cause execrated wear or will it actually help even with a mild cam?

Hey guys I have a a 2002 mustang gt. it’s FBO WITH TRICKFLOW STAGE 2 CAMS. Dyno tuned. I’m running into some fuel problems I guess and with that code I also have a random misfire which is P0300. I’m hoping to see if the p1237 code is the reason why I’m misfiring. Already did spark plugs with ngk iridium’s, new fuel pump/filter, fuel pump regulator maybe I’m missing a ground? I haven’t checked fuel injectors yet…If any of you guys have any input let me hear it, cus I’m been wrestling with this for like two months and working on it everyday haven’t seem to find the issue yet or if anyone has had experience with this I’m probly forgot some things I’m sure it’ll get asked

Also here’s a clip of the fuel pressure it dances around between 40 then drops down to 10 then will go above 80 sometimes then will shut off

So I had problems with my 08 gt, I get gas, it says it has more the it does, and when it gets to 3/4s on the gauge the needle goes down and says low fuel. Now I thought this was an easy fix so I did two things, I got my color gauges and I got a new sending unit. The only thing that’s changed is I now know 65 miles till E is a lie…. I have not found someone with a suitable starting place or a fix, can someone help a brother out?

91' all original equipment. Pulled the codes due to Check engine light being on. Found the following: (Key on only)- code 22 - MAP/BAP out of test range.
Engine running - 21 ECT out of test range, 41 HEGO system lean right, 91 system lean left, 33 EGR valve open not detected.

I do not have any testing info for these sensors. I'm wondering if code 22 could be the leading cause to all the other codes?

Where should I start?

How do I clear the codes?

Mouse91gt

Mustang5L5 submitted a new resource:

Ford CD Changer Operating Guide - Ford OE CD Changer install

CD changer operating guide for Ford E9LF CD changer

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Mustang5L5 submitted a new resource:

Ford CD Changer Install Guide 87-92 - Ford OE CD Changer install manual

Install Guide for F1ZF-18814-AA RF Modulated CD changer kit

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Power locks were working fine in my 91 lx…… now all of a sudden the drivers door switch is not working at all, and the passenger side switch will only unlock both doors, but won’t lock, it clicks like it wants to but won’t lock…… any ideas where to start? Thanx

So I just pulled the codes from the computer on my 92 Mustang 5.0 and I got a code 96, which is a "fuel pump secondary circuit failure". Can someone tell me what the fuel pump secondary circuit is? Is this a part that can be replaced? Is it a relay? What is a "secondary circuit"? And will this circuit failure cause poor fuel mileage?

Looking for a trick flow lower intake for a 302. Street burner, track heat or even an R lower will work.

Up for sale is my 1987 Mustang Gt. Hate to see it goes but after putting a ton of time and effort into its time to go. Car has been meticulously gone through and runs amazing. The car was painted less than 2 years ago and has been sitting in my garage since. No expense spared the engine, super charger, and rear end were rebuilt less than 1500 miles ago. The trans is a performance T5 that was installed 5 years ago. It’s been dyno tuned at over 400hp at the wheels. Message me with any questions or come see it in person. Only cons is the power steering pump has started to leak which I have a new one in hand also has a seep at the rear main seal which is very common and not worth fixing at this time. Also could use a headliner replacement. But rest of the interior is in great shape! See list in pics of all the new parts for sure more than that but that’s all I can remember off the top of my head!

So i did a ATS brembo brake conversion, i have rear disc brakes from a Sn95, the stock proportioning valve is gutted and plugged, and added a adjustable one on the passenger side lines. now here is where im confused. Im currently running a 95 MC on a STOCK booster. The car stops fine my only concern is my brakes wont lock up even with the proportioning valve all the way decreased. i feel like the brakes should be stronger since they are 4 piston Brembo, is my set up off?

1989 GT

Swapped out the 85 speedo for a FM 140 and, while I had the cluster out, I bumped the temperature gauge needle and it spun around 360+ degrees. Stupidly I didn't think to spin it back or do anything with it. Now, when it's running, everything seems normal but, when I shut her off, the needle pegs all the way to the top, almost not visible behind the dash cover(?).

I know some gauges stay where they are when you shut off and some go back to "zero". Crazy as it seems, I've been driving this car for 34 years and I can't recall what the temp gauge normally does when the engine is shut off. Only thing I'm sure of is that it should not peg out all the way to the top. I'm assuming that it is going back to wherever I left it after I bumped it.

so, the Qs are:
Where should the temp needle be when everything is shut down? stay where it was when running or back to "zero"?
If "zero", is it as simple as moving the needle back to wherever that is and is that "130" or somewhere else?

thanks for any help

I have a 1993 Mustang LX 2.3L with a manual transmission and have owed it for about 2 years now.

When I purchased it from the previous owner is was bone stock and only two issues I noticed was the hearer core was leaking. I can’t remember if it was bypassed. I ended up replacing it. The other issue was that with the key on and engine running you could slightly adjust the key forward or back and the radio would turn on. Later I found out that this issue also controlled the windshield wipers and other electrical components even while the car was running. Unfortunately, this issue also meant you could adjust it incorrectly and the whole car could shut off. I replaced the ignition cylinder and that did not fix the problem.

Fast forward to about the last few months. I noticed the car would take a while to start (not turning over initially) and if I got it start it would bog and the rpms would fluctuate a little. After a short while it would settle down (warm up) and be just fine. I later realized that the issue with these start ups was due to the fuel pump taking a long while to prime. I would turn off everything and just listen to it. It would last between 7-10 secs before finishing it’s prime sequence. At that time I could turn the key and the car would start right up, no bogging no issues. At this time my thoughts were, “Fuel pump is going out.” The car was bone stock with little to no maintenance done so I have been doing it all as I go forward.

Yesterday I dropped the tank replaced the fuel pump (which IMO looked great), I went with the 155lph Walboro. Buttoned everything up and the car still took a long time to prime. No change. I took it for a drive and after getting 100 feet from my house the car died and would not start back up. I listened for the prime, you could here it prime and finish it’s sequence but it wouldn’t start back up. I ended up pushing it down the road out of traffic. I tried starting it several times and one of the fuel lines popped off the fuel filter. I guess the pressure from the 155lph was too much for the plastic clamp. I replaced the hose and used a new clamp I had with me! I waited about 10 minutes and then tried to he car, it fired right up. I slowly drove it back home and parked it.

1. I really want to know why it’s taking forever to finish it’s priming sequence. What would cause that? Faulty relay? If so, should I swap the CCRM because that’s what this year model has.

Had some down time so decided to start “fixing” her up(not really fixing) she’s in great shape for a 30yo car. #2341 1993 Cobra. Did the map pocket delete. Hated those damn things and new hatch lift shocks. Got a bunch of small thing’s coming . New coil cover and decals, hood prop holder and a few small interior pieces. I will be changing out the center console to the one with cup holders from LMR. Needs a new headliner but it’s difficult to find a opal gray vinyl one. I’m probably going to have to get a the titanium one. At least most of the interior is simple to find just like all mustangs.

I just installed cams out of an explorer in my 96 gt and I noticed the bolts for the gears have smaller threads than my original bolts from the NPI cams. Just wondering if anyone has come across this

am swapping my 98 gt 4r70w automatic transmission. I did my research and learned that only another 98 gt 4r70w automatic transmission would be an easy plug-and-play fit. I took my transmission out and bought a transmission from a guy who owned a shop 4 hours away. The guy told me it's a 100% plug-and-play as it is another 98 gt 4r70w. However, I think it's a Mercury Grand Marquis 4r70w transmission. The wiring harness for the transmission is completely different and when I looked up the numbers located on the wiring harness of the transmission I bought (4w7t-7c078-aa) it came up with a 03-04 Mercury Grand Marquis Town Car Transmission wiring harness. My 98 gt transmission wiring harness is much longer than the supposedly 98 gt transmission wiring harness. My 98 gt's harness is on the right and the one i bought is on the left.


This is a picture of the transmission tag I own. This is a picture of the transmission tag I had bought.

This is on the wiring harness of the transmission I had bought and if you look it up it comes up with Mercury Grand Marquis 4r70w transmission.

My question is can this swap still work? Thank you for any help.

I currently just rebuilt my motor yet when I was driving today testing it out it drove fine a couple hours later I started driving again to test it and it likes to idle rough sometimes it’ll drop down in rpm’s and then die then I’ll turn it on and it’ll be fine but only when I come to a complete stop it’ll die I then start accelerating barely having my foot on the gas technically just crusing and the car likes to shake yet I just put in new motor mounts and like I said a whole engine rebuild I was thinking if it could be a bad fuel pump or an egr valve or my terminals on my battery the first start up It didn’t turn on then I moved the positive wire and it turned on but I only tightened it but I want peoples advice before I go start buying more parts I’m kind of frustrated since I just rebuilt the whole motor.

WHEN swapping a 460 into a 1978 Mustang II, which headers and motor mounts fit?

I just got a new clutch and all the parts, a 96-04 6 bolt flywheel, and the guy installing says the dowel pins lines up but the bolt holes do not. Is there anything that can be done here? This is a brand new flywheel and should fit.

Thanks

Would love to see these on a clean stock lx with black bumper trim.
In the video they look pretty good.

Still would like to see them in 18 and i'm not sure how good 4 lug is going to do the majority of users around here.